What is the Difference Between Old Cut and Brilliant Cut Diamonds?

One of the questions we often get asked in store is what the difference is between old cut diamonds and brilliant cut diamonds. Although many of our customers haven't heard 'old cut' or 'brilliant cut' previously, they can definitely see that diamonds can appear different in the jewellery they are trying on. Hopefully this guide gives a little bit more detail.

Old cut diamonds, also called antique cut diamonds, were popular during the 1800s and early 1900s. These diamonds typically have a smaller table (the flat surface on top of the diamond), a higher crown (the top part of the diamond from the girdle), and a larger culet (the point at the bottom of the diamond).

 
Antique Diamond and Sapphire Necklace
£3,999.00

Stunning turn of the century Belle Epoque necklace, set in platinum and 18ct gold. Set with old cut diamonds and french cut sapphires in this beautiful filigree design. The pendant is a shaped lozenge of platinum and 18ct gold, worked in filigree throughout, set with old cut diamonds of varying sizes arranged across its full surface. At the centre, a principal old cut diamond of approximately 0.25 carats sits within a milgrain-edged collet, surrounded by four further diamonds of approximately 0.14 carats each and a scattering of smaller old cuts filling every remaining space. A single old cut diamond drop of approximately 0.25 carats hangs from the base of the pendant, adding movement and further brilliance as the piece is worn.

The French cut sapphires are set in a bold chevron pattern across the lower section, the contrast between the white diamonds and the vivid sapphires beautiful. The connecting chain above is diamond set in matching filigree, with a shaped gold link at the top.

The total diamond weight is approximately 1.9 carats across all stones, unmarked but tested as platinum and 18ct gold throughout, as is consistent with fine jewellery of this period.

Store Location: Hungerford

Gemstones: Centre old cut diamond and old cut diamond drop 0,25cts each, four smaller diamonds 0.14ct each. Approximate total 1.9cts diamonds.

Hallmarks: Unmarked, tests as 18ct gold and platinum.

Measurements: 6cm drop, 3cm at widest point of pendant

Item Code:  JW65

 

They also have fewer facets than modern round brilliant cut diamonds, typically ranging from 58-72. These cuts were designed to maximize the sparkle and brilliance of the diamond in candlelight, which was the main source of lighting during this time period. The old cut diamond has a unique charm and character that is loved by antique jewellery collectors.

Brilliant cut diamonds have been popular since the early 1900s, and are the most common diamond cut today. The round brilliant cut diamond is the most popular cut and has 58 facets that are evenly distributed around the diamond. This cut has a larger table and a lower crown, which allows for more light to reflect off the stone and create more sparkle and brilliance.

These diamonds are cut to exacting proportions using computer-aided design and advanced cutting techniques that maximise the diamond's brilliance and minimise defects. They are known for their light performance and are the most popular choice for engagement rings and fine jewellery due to their modern and timeless appeal.

 
Vintage 18ct Gold Old Cut Diamond Cluster Ring
£799.00

Stunning vintage 18ct gold old cut diamond daisy ring, set with lovely sparkly diamonds and gold etchings to each shoulder.

Store Location: Wallingford

Ring Size: M

Gemstones: Diamonds approximately 0.35ct total.

Hallmarks: Stamped 18 for 18ct gold.

Measurements: 9mm top to bottom.

Item Code:  LF14

 
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